Electric Fence; Not for goats and sheep?

[sawfish99]

On the horses, if you walk them around the perimeter of the fence when turning out the first time, they will figure out the electric boundaries and stay inside. I don't flag any electric for the horses and they never seem to have a problem understanding the limits.

Here is what I would do:
Set wood posts for corners/gates
put up 5.5' T posts (set 18" into the ground leave about 48" above ground) wherever there is a slight bend in the fence line or about 24' apart
run 4 strands (starting at the bottom) of 14ga electric, making it as tight as you can
use the fiberglass, temporary step in posts as the support spacers for the 4 strands of electric. These are about 34" high (I think) and should be used earlier in the process to set the height for the wood and T post fence supports
Put the round or box style T post caps on so you don't have a spear hazard for the horses. Now, run the 5th line of electric at at the 48" height, using the support on the T post cap. This line of electric can be the rope so it is more visible. Since it will only be supported every 24', you will want a spring style tensioner on the line.

The benefit of the design is the fiberglass step in posts about about 1/3 of the cost of each T post and don't require additional insulators.

If I wasn't doing the 5th top line, then I wouldn't put T posts but every 80' and support with fiberglass step in completely between. I would also use on;y 5' T posts because I would run the top line of 14ga wire in the T post cap.

 

[NachoFarm]

Our posts are between 10 and 15 feet apart, and our wire stays TIGHT.

But I thought the wire wasn't supposed to be "tight"...otherwise it breaks...is there some sort of sweet spot you want to hit between too tight where it breaks and too loose?

 

[sawfish99]

Our posts are between 10 and 15 feet apart, and our wire stays TIGHT.

But I thought the wire wasn't supposed to be "tight"...otherwise it breaks...is there some sort of sweet spot you want to hit between too tight where it breaks and too loose?

If you only stretch the wire by hand, you will not be able to get it too tight. You might be able break it if using a come along to stretch it.

 

[redtailgal]

We use a come along, and there is a fine line between tight and too tight.

We want it pretty tight to keep it from tangling when the deer run thru it and break insulators, but the joke is that if you can stum it like a guitar its time to back it off a twist or two, lol.

 

[NachoFarm]

What do you use for insulators at your corners and ends? Is this what they call a termination kit? How do I figure out how many I need? They seem to be really expensive. I need them at every corner and every end? Oh, and how do I set up a gate with electric? That's all the questions...I promise...for now.

 

[redtailgal]

For corners we have these used.......

http://southernstates.com/catalog/p-1863-dare-10pack-high-strain-corner-end-assembly.aspx

http://southernstates.com/catalog/p-1772-dare-10pack-egg-style-cornerend-insulator.aspx

http://southernstates.com/catalog/p-1812-dare-10pack-tubular-corner-post-insulator.aspx

But for cost effectiveness, we use mainly these:

http://southernstates.com/catalog/p-8591-dare-heavy-duty-porcelain-end-post-insulator.aspx


For the gate, we just run the wire thru pvc, or cut it, attach a length of insulated and covered wire, bury the insulated wire across the gate path, and reattach at the other end.

 

[NachoFarm]

So are all four of the products you showed me basically just different versions of a product meant to do the same thing?

 

[redtailgal]

Pretty much.

We like the last one, it seems to be more durable.

A cheaper method is to take a (cheap) rubber garden hose, put some wire thru it, put it around the corner post, twist the ends of the wire together leaving a loop to put your fence wire thru. I'll see if we still have a garden hose corner somewhere and get you a pic. (We wedge the hose between two screws to hold it in place)

 

[secuono]

We have field fencing for our two horses. If the fence is tight and not sagging, it's less likely a horse will get stuck. If you have a horse that paws a fence, you need to teach it to stop! And if you introduce new horses or ones that like to fight or rear, they may do it near the fence and come down into the fence=bad. Calm horses that don't paw should be fine.
We only have one side that the horses have interest in crossing, so I keep that side tight, high and make sure the pony doesn't paw it. Rest has weeds and trees, so it's no fun for them to even want to cross that.




How do you guys drive three 6ft grounding rods into the earth?? What about on rocky ground? That's the biggest issue with electric fencing, ain't it?

Horses/ponies need one line at their knee and another at their chest. If you have a mix, how would they correctly space the wires?


I've also read the wire needs to stretch, so it will give and not break. Enough for them to make it over if they are dead set on it and enough that it doesn't break the spacers. Though, out in hundreds of acres, that's easier to do than a smaller amount of land with closer posts.

 

[redtailgal]

We have a digger attachment for the tractor for corner posts, and long rods that cant be drivien with a stake driver.

For t posts, we use a stake driver (homemade) and for shorter rods, we will use the stake driver.