Electric fence options

[Craig MacDonald]

We're getting ready for our first goats, two bottle babies that will arrive in November. The pen is done, 4' high Red Brand field fence for sheep and goats, 4" squares. We'll eventually get a LGD, but not until the kids are a little older. In the meantime I'm planning on an electric fence inside at goat knee height and another across the top to keep predators out.

I've read here and elsewhere that 1 joule will do the job for the goats. Will the same level work for the predators? If so I could make bottom and top one continuous run, yes??

 

[chiques chicks]

It should be fine. I have 640 feet of netting running on a 3 Joule and still have over 7000 volts at the end of the nets run. That's 9 stands of polywire which isn't as good a conductor standard wire. There is some additional standard wire in the run and I will admit that not all my connections are the best.

I concentrate more on volts, personally, although that data isn't as easy to find.

 

[greybeard]

I concentrate more on volts, personally, although that data isn't as easy to find.

Reason being, is because of the voltage drop accross the length of the conductor and thru the soil. There's just no way a manufacturer can accurately state what voltage you will see at the end of the wire, not knowing how long the wire is, how many hot strands, and what the total impedance (resistance to current flow) is in the wire, as well as how well the soil is carrying the return pulse back to the neg terminal on the charger. Remember, the shock doesn't actually occur until and unless the individual pulse makes it back to the negative terminal on the charger's circuit board. The manufacturer can state what the unit is capable of putting out, but that name plate data is rarely what any given fence will register on a tester at any given time and under all circumstances.

And, it is very possible to have very high voltage, and very very low current flow, and since current converted to power (in the form of watts) is a part of the formula for calculating joules (energy)..as well as the velocity of the pulse, you can see hi voltage on your tester and very little shock. The usual problem is an open in the circuit--an extremely dry soil for instance, or weak/bad connection on the hot wire.
E(J) = P(W) × t(s) The energy E in joules (J) is equal to the power P in watts (W), times the time period t in seconds

 

[Mini Horses]

OK -- Greybeard, WOW -- but, TMI for me. I've taken some readings just after a self test and try to keep it at that.
DO know to check connections, interruptions (found a dead black snake on a line once..solved issue when removed) & ground for depth, moisture, etc.

Now I know why I do those things.

 

[Craig MacDonald]

Yeah, I had to double check how to spell joule, never mind understand what it is. I know NOTHING about electric fencing. Planned to go to the big feed/hardware store in Eugene (Coastal) and get something off the shelf. I'll have about 250' for the goats and another 250' if I make the top course in the same circuit. I have an outlet nearby, and solar isn't a great option in western Oregon.

Any recommendations on brands to look for or avoid? Any other buying advice??

TIA

 

[greybeard]

I've just always found it much easier to troubleshoot any kind of system if ya know not only how it is supposed to work, but why it works that way too. Electrical background came courtesy of Marine Aviation.
I suppose one brand is as good as another, as long as you stick with the major brands. I'm partial to Gallagher, Parmak, and Zareba, tho lots of folks have had some quality problems with Zareba. I also have a small 10 mile Patriot solar unit that has been bulletproof for me for the last 3 years. Zareba, Red Snap'r and Fi-shock are all the same company. Gallagher and TruTest are (or were a few years ago) joined at the hip. Tru Test also makes Patriot, StaFix, and Speedrite, so a lot of the familiar names are made by other familiar names.
Kencove has their own brand--not sure if someone else makes it for them or if it's an in-house brand.

 

[chiques chicks]

Don't get one made for small animals, like the ones they sell for dog containment.

I have an old recycled Paramak. A neighbor found a bunch in a junk pile during a stream cleanup. New solar panel and battery and works good as new. The reviews I've read have people claiming to use them on 500 acre fields and working well all the way around. Of course new they are in the $250-300 range. I do like it, though. Considering most small ones are over $100, it's worth the investment if you plan to expand in the future. Mine is over 15 years old and going strong.

Eta: I also hear good things about Gallagher (sp?) Chargers.

 

[Mini Horses]

I have 3 solar Parmaks....love them! 2 are 15 y/o, replaced batteries about the 10 yr mark . Last one is only 2 y/o & was a steal as I bought from someone who "had" to move -- got 6 mo old Parmak, 3 pole gates, over 2500' of the white 2" fence stuff, connectors, etc., a 100 gal rubbermaind & 40 gal one. ALL for $150. I was almost embarrassed! Almost.

 

[Bruce]

Not wanting to hijack @Craig MacDonald 's thread, tell me if I should start a new one:

Getting a 14 month old male GP soon. I'll need to put a top wire at 5' over the 4' sheep and goat fence. Suggestions on what specs I should look for? Initially a small area (~500 linear feet) but hope to expand to perimeter fencing which could run to 3,000 feet or more.

Also, living in the land of frozen ground many months of the year, I read somewhere that instead of just having 3 ground rods 10' apart near the unit, I need to run a ground wire out along the fence and put in ground rods at some interval. True or not?

Thanks