Figuring out how much fencing

[Alexz7272]

So I need to fence in the perimeter of the property and we are lucky enough to have the original blue prints. Our property is not square at all, do I read the smal numbers shown in the blueprints? 448.55, 262.53, 239.60, 165.23, 275.61 & 1087.18?

Also, I want to replace the just 3 strand barrier in the side towards the neighbors. I'm ready to shoot their dogs, literally. Do I need to remove those strands when I put the field fencing up or can I leave them on/against? Maybe as reinforcement?

Can I re-use the bracing I have there now? Will have to re-tighten it, I know.

Lastly, the delivery truck was an idiot and didnt do as we told him & tried to BACK OUT of our driveway instead of turning around
He hit our entrance beam & now its crooked, maybe broken? If it broke, its deeper in the ground then I have been able to dig with it being so cold lately. Best bet to just replace the whole thing? It would be a hassle to try and straighten, right?

Thank you wise ones!!

 

[Latestarter]

do I read the small numbers shown in the blueprints? 448.55, 262.53, 239.60, 165.23, 275.61 & 1087.18?

Yes, those numbers indicate the number of feet along that individual lay line.

Do I need to remove those strands when I put the field fencing up or can I leave them on/against? Maybe as reinforcement?

If the present T posts are adequate/not rusted out, and the right height for what you need, and firmly planted I would fence right over the existing barbed wire. Why waste time removing it? I would probably tighten it first though. I would also throw out some hamburger then shoot the neighbor's dogs.

ETA: I should have started by asking "Is the existing fence yours or the neighbors?" If the neighbors, then you need to ask permission before you fence over what's already there. If yours, then you can do with it as you please.

Can I re-use the bracing I have there now? Will have to re-tighten it, I know.

Right now there is NO bracing... the two wooden posts should have a horizontal beam about 3/4 of the way up forming an "H" and then the wire "X" to tighten everything up to make it all vertical/level/straight. There's a good fencing discussion thread on here by Bruce that covers all of these details and shows how to do it with "H" braces or floating braces. https://www.backyardherds.com/threads/fence-post-bracing.34779/

Best bet to just replace the whole thing? It would be a hassle to try and straighten, right?

I would attach a come along to it and run that to your trailer hitch and then pull it back upright. I'd then move the cement block and drive a wedge shaped PT 4x4 piece into the ground to support it. I'd also consider putting in another post ~ 6-8 feet down the line and making an "H" brace for it, or doing a floating brace to keep it standing straight/true/strong.

 

[NH homesteader]

I am terrible at fencing (my husband would prefer I not try doing it anymore because I always mess it up)... But wow you have a gorgeous view!!

The mail lady backed over part of my garden last year after my husband told her to back past the garden and onto the lawn... Seriously lady?

 

[Alexz7272]

@Latestarter It is our fence those idjits are so clueless about everything. Can you tell we dont like them?

I didnt think that was bracing, thank you for the explaination.

We do have another post about 6 feet down the line, should've gotten a better picture! Would it just be better to replace it completely instead of fixing it? We will be attaching out gate to it eventually (welding it up now).

@NH homesteader Thank you our front view is pretty awesome!
And I dont understand people! I went off yelling in Russian at the guy when he did that, Aaron said I scared him & we have had a new delivery guy since then

Heres a winter pic of the view for your viewing pleasure

 

[Latestarter]

Sounds to me like you'd rather replace it. Whatever you'd like to do is perfectly acceptable I miss seeing the mountains being down here in TX, but I have to admit that I much prefer the milder winter climate.

 

[NH homesteader]

That's beautiful! Almost makes up for the lack of water rights and overbearing controlling local government...oh wait it doesn't but it is pretty! Lol

Can't blame the guy, I think I would be scared too!

 

[Bruce]

ETA (before I post ) Looks like @Latestarter beat me to it! But:

From the bottom.
If the ground is not at all soft, most likely the post cracked. That is what the one on the ground looks like. AND there is tensioned (well maybe it was at one point) wire on it but no bracing (meaning no floating brace and no H-brace). IF that post is not broken you can straighten it up but all end or corner posts need to be braced.

As LS said the corner you are asking about is not properly braced.

1. The wire ends at the eyes in the first post. That SHOULD be your brace post and the wire should go PAST that to the corner post.
2. There is no horizontal brace pole between the 'brace' post and corner post. The brace wire (ground level on the corner post) pulls on the brace post (at the point where this piece is attached to the brace post) forcing this piece back to the corner post keeping it from being pulled toward the tensioned fence (by the tensioned fence).
3. They used barbed wire instead of brace wire. Or maybe that is double strand non barbed wire? Can't tell for sure.

If there is very little tension on the wire, the way it was built would pull the top of the first post back toward the bottom of the corner post. BUT that sort of fence (i.e. not electric) should be strung pretty tight or the animals will just walk between the strands as they move out of the way.

It looks like the corner post isn't plumb. Minimally I think you want to reset that post. Since you are talking about replacing the strands or just putting field fence over it, you need to properly brace that corner post and run the field fence to it. You don't need to X brace the corner since there is no gate hanging off the corner post nor fence continuing in the same direction. The current direction of the brace wire is correct.

Do not be tempted to go around the corner post and continue to the next corner. Tie the fence off at each corner post so the fence is pulling ONLY in one direction. Do this by wrapping each strand of the field fence around the post and twisting it back on itself.

Looking at the survey you need braced corners at both ends of the 1087' run, at the right side of the 448' (upper) run and the end of the 262'. You MIGHT be able to get away without bracing and tying off to the other two angle changes but I would put a good size wood post there, not a T-post.

It is possible the existing wire will make tying the field fence in a bit more difficult, I don't know. It might be worth tying the field fence to the corner post (after it is properly set and braced) and laying the fence out toward the next braced post. Then stand it up against a couple of posts and see if there is a PITA problem that suggests removing the existing wire or it is a "meh" and you leave it.

 

[Latestarter]

Gosh, I keep forgetting... also wanted to say that's not a "blueprint"... it's actually a survey.

 

[greybeard]

What, is the deal with all those turnbuckles?


The wire on those fences is loose because there are no acceptable ends or corners on them.
Put up no new wire before rectifying that.

 

[Bruce]

Probably figured they could tension the wires whenever needed. But I bet they loosen up all on their own since they aren't 'locking' turnbuckles. And though I'm not sure, the twist of the wire might be opposite to the way the turnbuckle is turned to tighten. If the wire isn't held while the turnbuckle is tightened, it will try to untwist the wire (and fail and back off the turnbuckle).