1. BYH Official Poll: What are the things that you should consider before buying herds?
    CLICK HERE!
    (if you are logged in, this notice can be dismissed using the "x" to the top right of the notice)

    Dismiss Notice
  2. Meet Pearl, New Horse - Discussion thread.
    CLICK HERE!
    (if you are logged in, this notice can be dismissed using the "x" to the top right of the notice)

    Dismiss Notice
  3. Dismiss Notice
  4. BYH Picture of the Week (POW) - Submit your Pics Now !!
    Click HERE!
    (if you are logged in, this notice can be dismissed using the "x" to the top right of the notice)
    Dismiss Notice

How cold is too cold to kindle?

Discussion in 'Birthing, Weaning and Raising Young Rabbits' started by Edge of the Wilderness, Aug 19, 2018.

?

At what temperature range would you decide not to kindle?

  1. 50°F to 59°F

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  2. 40°F to 49°F

    1 vote(s)
    25.0%
  3. 30°F to 39°F

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  4. 20°F to 29°F

    1 vote(s)
    25.0%
  5. 10°F to 19°F

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  6. 0°F to 9°F

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  7. -10°F to -1°F

    1 vote(s)
    25.0%
  8. -20°F to -11°F

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  9. -30°F to -21°F

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  10. Colder than -30°F

    1 vote(s)
    25.0%
  1. Aug 19, 2018
    Edge of the Wilderness

    Edge of the Wilderness Chillin' with the herd

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2018
    Messages:
    20
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    31
    Location:
    Northern Minnesota
    I am trying to work out a breeding schedule, and I have seen various opinions on this topic. I've seen people say below 0°F is fine, while I think I read on ARBA not to kindle below 60°F.

    Here are my parameters. I live in a zone 3. We get sustained temperatures in the -20°F to -30°F range with occasional dips down to the -40's (definitely hit that with windchills). We typically will have a week or two where temperatures do not get above 0°F. We only get 100-120 frost free days a year. We will be working with a couple different NZ crosses for personal meat production, and the rabbits are getting setup in a shared enclosed, unheated animal building. Last year, the temperatures inside the building seemed to stay at 0°F or above during the coldest part of the winter. This past winter we had about 8 days with non-windchill temp highs at 0°F or less and 22 days with non-windchill lows at -20°F to -34°F. I hope I am not overwhelming with information, but I find that my experience of "winter" and "cold" do not always equate to the average experience and information of others on the internet.

    At this point, I do not intend to run heaters or bring litters into the house. What temperature do you think is too cold and would you base this on daytime high or nighttime low? Our day/night temps can have a 40° difference.

    Thanks for your feedback!
     
  2. Aug 19, 2018
    Sundragons

    Sundragons Loving the herd life

    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2017
    Messages:
    220
    Likes Received:
    540
    Trophy Points:
    153
    Location:
    Mesa, AZ, US
    Following out of curiosity. I live in the desert and this is a non-issue for us, but I'd like to learn.
     
  3. Aug 20, 2018
    promiseacres

    promiseacres Herd Master

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2012
    Messages:
    2,651
    Likes Received:
    3,015
    Trophy Points:
    363
    Location:
    NW Indiana
    I try to not have too many winter litters. I do use heat lamps in any case to keep water from freezing so many days so I occassionally will attempt breedings in the winter. We are get freezing weather and sustained days 10-20 but not too many under 10. I also wouldn't be opposed to bringing in boxes to the house and taking them back to be fed twice a day
     
  4. Aug 20, 2018
    Pastor Dave

    Pastor Dave True BYH Addict

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2015
    Messages:
    1,615
    Likes Received:
    2,627
    Trophy Points:
    283
    Location:
    Hall, IN
    I'm with promiseacres and we both live in the same state. If I decide to breed in winter, I like to shoot for an above average day like 45 or 50degs if possible. You may not have the high temps to deal with, but I wait for a break in the heat too and shoot for a 70deg day especially if it's been 80+ or 90's for a stretch. Males will have a tendency to go sterile in the heat until it cools down for a spell. I do not add heat or lamps in winter. You may have to do something as far North as you are. My advice I received was that if power fails and the rabbits were used to warmth from a heat source, it could be detrimental by the next morning when I find it. Litters will keep each other warm. Singles get straw and if it gets real cold a box to hunker in with straw. Just my 2 cents.
     
  5. Sep 22, 2018
    Marie28

    Marie28 Loving the herd life

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2017
    Messages:
    129
    Likes Received:
    68
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    The way our cages are set up they are made for winter breeding. We have a nest box area built into the cage, 3/4ths of the cage are soild wood (in the summer we take off a wall to allow air movement) and our current does do really good with making a warm nest with lots of fur. With that said I prefer it to be no colder than -10 the coldest of the night.
     
    Pastor Dave likes this.
  6. Sep 25, 2018
    Tale of Tails Rabbitry

    Tale of Tails Rabbitry Loving the herd life

    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2017
    Messages:
    248
    Likes Received:
    174
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Southeastern USA
    It depends so much on your set up. I live in the southeast so our winters usually do not have temperatures around 0 degrees for very long, but we had have winters that hung in the teens for a few weeks in many years. I breed all winter regardless and not at all in the summer.

    We have a kindling suite with a drop nest in the hutch side, which we keep warm with a warming pad under it and insulating cardboard wrapped around when temperatures dip. As soon as their eyes are open, they usually have enough fur and mobility to get warm when they need to so they are moved out of the kindling suite to a cage with a nest box and the nesting materials from the other or with clean extra fur I collect. The next doe due is moved into the kindling suite that same day. We have not yet lost a kit to hypothermia since using this set up.

    We have used heat lamps with sigh vinyl as winter breaks in the past, which was great for keeping the water bottles from freezing. But, still lost a few kits that got out of the nest, which is why I dearly love the drop nest.