Need all the info i can get

[newton the goat]

Hello guys,
I need as much info about all topics of rabbits that i can get. Though im not a total noob and have raised rabbits in the past, that was still over ten years ago and i have forgotten a lot of things. I currently getting three flemish new Zealand crosses (two does and a buck) who are still too young to breed. So as much information as i could possibly get on topics ranging from breeding to sickness to socilizing and even housing ( really anything that comes to mind) would be a godsend!
These are my current little ones im picking up monday

The two brown ones are my females and the albino is my male.
Thank you in advance to anyone with advice they can give me. Everything is appreciated.

 

[mystang89]

Breeding.... They can breed as young as 3 months so separate males from females if you're not wanting a hoard of rabbits. When you do want kits don't expect the rabbits just to breed immediately. They are new to it and take time to learning what to do. Some people put the female in the males cage for a few fall offs others put them in a completely neutral area. I do the former. NEVER put the male with female unless you want a castrated buck.

Housing... Ranges as to whatever you want. Some put them in a pen together. If you do that you may want to wire the floor as they look like to did. Some make wooden cage frames lined with ½ x ½ inch wire where the rabbits are off the floor. Still others use hanging wire cages. Same object as wood cages except easier to move and you don't worry about rabbits eating wood. I use wood cages. Make sure they aren't in direct sunlight during summer. They get hot. Make sure they have a wind buffer during the winter. They get cold.

Food..... Most go for food pellets from feed store others try fodder and others make their own. I try to keep the food at around 16% protein. Don't feed them too much or they won't breed.i feed mine 1 cup a day. Doesn't sound like much but it's how much mine need. To check if they are too fat or to skinny run your hand along their back and if you feel pronounced ridges from the spine then they need more food. If you don't feel any spine they need less. The object is to feel the spine like you would your own. If you go with food it's cheaper, just more work. Also need to suppliment with hay as well. Same thing applies though. Don't feed too much or too little.

Disease.... Too large a topic. Watch for cocciodocis which is a soil born disease. Also watch it for snuffles, ear mites, scabbies, bloat etc. You get the point, SO many different once but you can read up on some of the main ones here. Warning, some content graphic. http://rabbittalk.com/various-rabbit-diseases-graphic-t14782.html

Water.... They need water 100% of the day.

If You're going the meat rabbit then leave the kits with doe for around 4+weeks, weaning them off a couple of kits at a time so the doe doesn't end up with mastitis. Normally they grow to butcher weight and are dispatched around 12+weeks. The younger they are, the less meat but more tender. The older they are, the more meat but a bit tougher. The goal is to get that middle ground.

Socializing...I haven't a clue if they are social creatures or not. Mine are in cages but themselves but right next to each other. This is mainly for my convinience though. I guess they are like children. Some fight and some get along.

I'm sure there's other stuff but it's not coming to mind. Someone else will pitch in. Good luck.