Rammy's Ramblings

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Rammy

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Iv got one of those tanks you mentioned and it does have that valve, but when i need to empty it, I just tip it over when the water gets low enough. I just thought Id try fixing this one too so I could use it. Guess I'll make a tater planter out if it.
 
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greybeard

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Its the part that you insert into the tank, then screw a big ring onto it on the outside, then you screw the plug into that. Where its leaking is just behind the part you put on the tank that you put the drain plug into. My luck there is a crack there and wont be able to fix it.
They're called bulkhead fittings. I've come across more than one new tank where the outside nut was not very tight straight from the retailer/factory, & I've also successfully fixed several cracked tanks at the drain location, usually with JB weld or 2 part marine epoxy, tho windshield urethane adhesive is more flexible, and it's considered a 100% permanent fix.
Don't even think about using silicone. It will seal for a short period but will begin leaking again quickly thereafter.
sounds like a poorly fitting gasket.

What they look like uninstalled..the part in his hand is the nut that goes on the outside:
blkhd3.jpg

The part that goes in from the inside of the tank:
bulkhd1.jpg

Assembled..outside view:
blkhd2.jpg


The urethane gaskets are plenty thick, but as you can see from the picture, fit pretty loosely around the threaded tube. The gasket will often bunch up when tightened, which causes a poor seal and a drip. When assembling, lube the gasket up with a bit of Vaseline or other urethane safe lubricant. (don't use mineral oil..even food grade ..it will disintegrate the urethane gasket)

But, it's usually not the gasket or the bulkhead fitting itself. The wall of the tank develops a crack radiating out from the bore that the fitting goes in, and that's where you do the repair. The tanks are made with an inset where the fitting goes, to help prevent animals from stepping on the drain and for whatever reason, that inset is thinner than the rest of the tank. It's also the area that gets the most stress because the whole weight of the volume of water is pressing down and out on that area much more than nearer the top of the tank.

Another good repair method is 'plastic welding' which is done with a souped up hair dyer with little nozzles (you can buy them at Harbor Freight) and you melt a stick that looks a lot like a hot glue stick. You have to get the same type plastic stick the tank is made from, but they can usually be bought at the same place the gun is sold.
It should probably be HDPE type 2, as that is the same material the tanks are originally made from and it is accepted by FDA as being 100% non toxic. (It is also almost always made from recycled HDPE which of course= 'free range' plastic (the best kind) & and of course...Gluten free as well.)
They come in handy for lots of different plastic repair jobs and well worth the investment. No matter what method you use, the tank has to be clean and dry before the repair is made.


Tho a tank may say Rubbermaid, the material is not rubber. It's HDPE. Temperature variations from below zero to over 100 degrees can cause the High Density Polly Ethylene plastic to get brittle and crack. These tanks all seem to do much much better if setting on a concrete slab so the load is distributed evenly, instead of on uneven ground caused by settling of the tank. (water weighs about 8.3 lbs per gallons so a 50 gal tank can weigh 400+ lbs when full)

One thing, I have found over the years that those Rubbermaid tanks will get leaks and they are practically impossible to fix and for it to last.
Jan, Rubbermaid stock tanks used to be the top line, but the entire Rubbermaid company basically went out of business in the late 90s and their assets auctioned off to settle liabilities (debt) Their most valuable asset was the name and it was bought by a company called Newell and their products are no longer quite up to the decades old standard Rubbermaid had. You can blame Walmart for that.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newell_Brands#Rubbermaid
It's like the brand Bell & Howell.there is no Bell & Howell company any more, just a name that has been sold and you'll see that name slapped on all kinds of products that have little or nothing to do with the fine products B&H used to make and sell.

Newell sold off licensing rights for trashcans and consumer totes to another company called United Solutions in 2017 and they now make all those trash cans and totes you see in Walmart today that carry the Rubbermaid name, but Newell still makes the outdoor stuff like stock tanks.

Or, I guess you can buy some of that As Seen On TV tape that the guy fixed a cut-in-half-boat with.
flextpe.jpg

:lol:
 
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farmerjan

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If you are lucky to get a 50% hatch from the shipped eggs then maybe you will have a few extras to sell. Plus eggs from 2 different places will give you a chance to have 2 different bloodlines to use for some crossbreeding. This time of year, with the temps all over the place, you will be fortunate to get that. All they need is one day of too much chill and your fertility/viability will drop. Many times the eggs will start to develop but will die after a week. It has alot to do with the chilling/mishandling of the eggs. It won't be anything you do wrong, it will have happened before they get to you. One other thing, when you do get them, make sure you let them "rest" for 24 hours in a room temp room before you set them. The "germ" really needs to adjust before it is "asked" to start growing in the incubator. I will not get eggs shipped to me before April, and then it can be risky. Cooler is better than too hot, but a cold snap/chill can just demolish the viability.
 

Rammy

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It will be a learning experience thats for sure. I know one shipment is coming from Michigan. Hope they will be ok. The others will be coming from Lousiana. I will have 18 eggs in the new bator. I already have it set for the 28 day incubation but wont add water and get the humidity level up til the day before. Thank you about the wait time for putting the eggs. I have been trying to read up and look up info on how to have a successful hatch on ducks. Ive done chickens before with pretty good success, but this will be a first time on ducks. I might give a few to @CntryBoy777 as a house warming gift. :)
I definetly will wait a day or two to put them in once I get them. I do want to give them as much a chance as possible. Im having them delivered to my work so I will get them while Im there and they wont be setting on my porch until I get home if its cold.
Im also getting about 20 chicks from Ideal around the end of February. I will be up to my armpits on baby fuzzy butts!
 

CntryBoy777

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We have to first get In the house.....and being in Florida it will already be Warm.....:lol:.....but, once that happens ya will be more than Welcome to stay a few days if'n ya so desire....tho, until the stuff gets down here accommodations may be a bit scarce, so bring your sleeping bag witcha!!.....:)
 
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