stock tank heater 1250 watts.... and the extention cord?

[Hillsvale]

So we were looking at a stock tank heater which comes on and off based on tempertaure. It indicated that you can not use with an extention cord.... so what are my options?

I can put in a new plug which I would rather not do..

But I wonder if I can just change up the cord to make the distance to the outlet.... what gauge wire would I use .... is this advisable? Will it then be at risk of leaking?

 

[ThreeBoysChicks]

I have used a stock tank for years and I have always used an extension cord that is certified for outdoor use and it has always worked.

 

[Hillsvale]

wow thats interesting.. I must look into why they are warning you against it then. The salesman said that the courds aren't really designed to have that kind of load on it.... last year we hauled water from the laundry room but we have a breeding pair of pigs and 4 weaners... 7 sheep, 3 goats.... lots of chickens and breeding stock so it would be a lot of hauling.

 

[Margali]

You need to look at the info for the stock tank heater and see how many amps it draws. The problem with extension cords has to do with sizing. If the extension cord is not rated for the amps of the heater it will overheat, melt the insulation, and possibly catch on fire. That is also why you aren't supposed to daisy chain power strips and extension cords off a single wall outlet, too many amps. The distance of extension cord also affects the situation. Longer cord is more resistance to the current (amps). For more than 50' of cord you should increase the amp rating of the extension cord by 1 amp class / wire gauge.

Once you know how many amps the heater pulls and distance needed, you can get an heavy duty or industrial extension cord. They can be expensive if you need a long distance with high amps but it depends on the heater you want.

example http://www.tractorsupply.com/livest...rs-multi-use-utility-deicer-1250-watt-2170152

1250 watt divide by 120 volt = 10.42 amps current draw. 120 volt is standard house wiring US and Canada. Europe is generally 220 volt. Always round up!, so 11 amps.

A basic extension cord is usually rated for around 13 amps which would not work. You always want a buffer of at least a couple amps and/or wire gauge. The smaller the gauge number the thicker the wire..

Assuming 50ft or less, this would work. See the section that says current and volt rating? It's 125V and 15A. The 14/3 is the wire gauge. http://www.tractorsupply.com/coleman-cable-inc-50-ft-14-3-sjeow-cord-3515559

I personally like to always have pad in case I upgrade what I am supplying power to or end up adding another device. This is like what I have for general use. It's 125V and 15A. It's 10 gauge so will take more time at near max load before starting to overheat. http://www.tractorsupply.com/home-i...-contractor-reg-extension-cord-50-ft--3227669

If you are going to use a splitter and add another device like a pump at the end of the extension cord this will change things. Pumps have peak and operating load (current draw). In that case collect everything you want to use and talk to someone in the electrical department.

Hope this helps!
Margali & Xeno
*Used tractor supply because they had good specification pages on their products. Don't work there or shop there much*

 

[goodhors]

Margali gave you good information.

Is there any chance you could run power out to the barn and have an outlet beside the
water tank? Once you get the power out there, you will be able to use it for many things
you never expected!

Much safer to have a true outlet, with big enough wire providing the service to plug
in the tank heater. Extension Cords are not meant to be used a constant power source,
and even with big wire in them, you lose power over distances. A friend was doing
the extension cord thing, complained that her tank heaters were just JUNK! They
hardly lasted any time, always going bad, taking them back!! Well that far away
from the house outlet, they didn't get enough amperage and could only work at
partial power. They just kept burning out. She didn't understand the problem until
my husband explained in detail about power loss.

Even industrial sized cords will be exposed to damage by the weather and abrasion from
wind or rubbing the ground. Not sure if animals may be able to reach the cord to
chew or rub on it. Not good for the cord or animal!

You will want to find some way to prevent animals from pulling/chewing on the heater
cord or touching cord, so they can't get electrocuted or pull the heater out of the tank.
Powered heater can start fires when touching things. Those Rubbermaid tanks SAY not
to use an electric heater in them, and tank WILL BURN if the heater gets exposed out of
water, touching the walls. We had one tank burn "to the waterline" when a horse pulled
the heater partially out. Neighbor said it made a GREAT fire. He had stopped when he
saw the flames from the road, threw snow on the fire to put it out. SO LUCKY not
to have the tank and heater inside the barn!!

We now have steel water tanks inside insulated wooden boxes. The boxes have a half
top screwed down, so only part of the tank is open water. The sunken heater and cord
are under the lid with cord coming out the back side against the fence. No one can reach the
cord or pull the heater out. No floating heaters again! With our tanks out in exposed areas,
the insulated boxes keep water pretty ice free, on minimal time running the heaters.
And heated boxes are STILL outside the barn, for MUCH less chance of fire to the barn.

We have run hose to the barn when we had barn water issue in winter. Sure a lot easier to fill tanks,
night buckets for the horses, than trying to carry those many gallons of water. We wind
the hose up on a wheeled hose reel, take it all back to keep in the warm basement. All that
water weight is a big strain on your body to move, plus trying to keep your feet under yourself
with icy or muddy ground. You are asking for a sprain or soft tissue injury problems.

 

[Hillsvale]

good info.... our tank is actually a roof catchment 250 gallon plastic with a wire cage which I built a platform to raise off the ground. The stock tank heater is OK for plastic tanks so I am comfy putting this thing in there... last year we had way fewer animals and just hauled from the house... our barn is little and does not have power but also has a roof catchment. Oddly our coops all have power! lol

If it were earlier in the year I could move the water system to the outside garage and have no issue plugging it in as I wired it last year with a pup panel and 15 amp breakers... it would only require changing up the downspouts. Our house has a huge roof and fills this catchment up in inutes but the way the water has been falling lately we could probable manage to fill up before a freeze. Of course we had a bit of snow the other day!

SImon feeds and waters everyone at 5am while I am still ignoring the idea of getting up.... I am trying to save hiim time.

Maybe I will move the one from the barn up to the exterior garage where it could be plugged directly and perhaps put a gifi plug but the house for the main tank... it wouldn't be hard for me to wire.... but I was probably hoping for a short cut that oddly would be more expensive!!