Jumping the Moon Dairy - the next chapter

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You are an inspiration. Wish I had a fraction of your dedication/perseverance/will power. Not much longer till you're there.
 

Bruce

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Putting the tarp on is easy, throwing the rope over the frame took me a few tries. All those years of playing softball paid off so at least I don't "throw like a girl". And yes, they have you put the collar ties on after it is raised, and they also don't give any clue as to where they are to go. I would have liked for them to tell me that they are 'x' number of inches from the joint instead of dangling 14' in the air and wondering if I have them even
:th
I can't imagine myself trusting a ladder leaning against the structure when there is NOTHING to keep it from wanting to lean side to side and maybe even collapse. In that structure the ONLY thing that keeps the rafters from spreading out at the bottom is the connection at the ridge and the collar ties. Not real strong without those ties!

I read the instructions after I can't figure out how to do things ;) I ASSUME there is a connector at the peak for the rafters that has a set angle. Seems like the EASIEST thing would be to put the top rafter pieces in place ON THE GROUND and figure out where the collar ties go based on the angle of the connector, then measure and make them all the same. Then put in the ridge pole pieces to make the roof, put in the lower rafter pieces and connect all the rafters with the bottom "top plate" pieces. Kind of like making trusses that are stuck on the top plates of a building, rather than building the roof structure "in place". Next time :lol:
 

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My ladder was not leaning on anything. The really tall one is a 3-legged orchard ladder and it is incredibly steady. Next time....sounds like a good plan and I hope I never need to use it.
 

Bruce

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Oh, I was unaware that orchard ladders had a third leg. I thought they had to be shoved up in the tree, thus the narrow top.
 

babsbag

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Orchard ladders on uneven ground are the best invention ever. I am thinking of getting a smaller one since we have a severe lack of level ground around here.

I need some ideas. I need to put some corrugated tin on the front of my barn and it needs to go under the front edge of the tarp and attach to the pipe rafter. This is the barn just for reference. We have built a lean-to off of the front but I have an open area above the roof of the lean-to and the top of the barn that needs to be closed in. I need ideas on how to cover the edge of the corrugated metal so it won't rub on the fabric cover. I thought of tape, foam pipe insulation, and drip tubing that has been slit. But due to the fact that it is corrugated metal all of those ideas and not real practical. Any suggestions?

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babsbag

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They do, and I have one. But the ultimate goal is to make something we can take off when the rain goes away, basically May-Oct. The covers that they sell are designed to be put on permanently with tie down ratchets, wood frames, and clamps. I only have the end covers because they came with the barn when I bought it on closeout.
 

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Is there any way that you can work with the provided canvas end gable pieces to reinforce the roof line edge and add grommets like every foot or so? Then you could essentially wire/zip tie it inside the roof canvas cover and over the roof end support pole? Then taking it back down would be as simple as cutting the zip ties... You could sew a "sleeve" at the bottom and slide a length of pipe through it to hold it down on the lean to roof so the wind can't blow in under it and cause stress on the zip ties or blow rain inside.

You could search out an "Omar the tent maker" in your area that works with canvas to create it for you. I'd say buy and cut out a large tarp, but honestly, the store bought tarps have very little strength for something like this. They would shred before the winter season was over. You'd really need a tarp like the 18 wheel rigs use to cover their cargo on the road (stands up to all weather and sustained/prolonged 70-80 MPH winds).
 

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Last year we did use the "canvas" and used 2x4's at the bottom. The problem is the the panel is square, it doesn't match the curve of the barn so they want you to pull it through to the inside and then cut it to match the curve and then clamp it on. Since we already have the main cover on the barn it is very difficult to get the front panel under the bonnet to pull through to the inside; not something I want to repeat.
 
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