aggieterpkatie
The Shepherd
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- Oct 23, 2009
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Bee, if your ewes were grazing the fall fescue and getting fat, that's still flushing only not with grain. 
After frost, fescue's starches turn to sugar which not only increases palatability, it also increases nutrition. So, your ewes were technically getting flushed, but with forage instead of grain.
Even if ewes are in good body condition, they could still benefit from flushing. We all know how if animals are under hard times (food wise), they're not going to breed as well because their body won't put in energy for egg production when the animal can hardly support itself. When the ewe is flushed, her body says, 'Hey, look at all this extra nutrition! Let's ovulate lots of eggs because we've got plenty of food coming in!" Some breeds are naturally prolific, like Fins. I would think Fins don't need to be flushed, because they'd probably have trips easily, instead of up to 5 or 6 babies by being flushed. If people are finding their ewes cannot support multiples, then they should not flush. If their ewes can easily feed 2 and 3 babies, then they should. I would want any ewe of mine to have at least twins every time. IMO, if they're having singles they're not pulling their weight. My Southdown ewe had a single her first lambing, and I told her I would give her one more try, and she had twins the next time (all babies were ewes too, which was a bonus although not really her doing).
So, IMO, flushing isn't "necessary" because the ewes aren't good enough, it's insurance to make sure you're getting the most bang for your buck. If that means I have to provide extra feed for a few weeks before breeding, I'll gladly do it. I don't have room for any freeloaders here, so I'll do what I can to ensure the most lambs per ewe, and flushing is easy.
After frost, fescue's starches turn to sugar which not only increases palatability, it also increases nutrition. So, your ewes were technically getting flushed, but with forage instead of grain. Even if ewes are in good body condition, they could still benefit from flushing. We all know how if animals are under hard times (food wise), they're not going to breed as well because their body won't put in energy for egg production when the animal can hardly support itself. When the ewe is flushed, her body says, 'Hey, look at all this extra nutrition! Let's ovulate lots of eggs because we've got plenty of food coming in!" Some breeds are naturally prolific, like Fins. I would think Fins don't need to be flushed, because they'd probably have trips easily, instead of up to 5 or 6 babies by being flushed. If people are finding their ewes cannot support multiples, then they should not flush. If their ewes can easily feed 2 and 3 babies, then they should. I would want any ewe of mine to have at least twins every time. IMO, if they're having singles they're not pulling their weight. My Southdown ewe had a single her first lambing, and I told her I would give her one more try, and she had twins the next time (all babies were ewes too, which was a bonus although not really her doing
). So, IMO, flushing isn't "necessary" because the ewes aren't good enough, it's insurance to make sure you're getting the most bang for your buck. If that means I have to provide extra feed for a few weeks before breeding, I'll gladly do it. I don't have room for any freeloaders here, so I'll do what I can to ensure the most lambs per ewe, and flushing is easy.
And flushing got all messed up! I'm going to switch form sheep feed to whole corn, and just keep the ram longer. And hope for the best!
Not overfeeding as in making-ruminants-sick, just as in omgosh-she-used-so-much-hay. 
