Fence post bracing

greybeard

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So many questions an so much food for thought...

In this case, I agree with using panels or corral panels in the 14' areas.

But, to get back to this:
The question: the N/S length of that section is only 14'. Do I need to brace the posts in the N/S direction for that little distance?

This, is one of those illusionary things that make us think short runs of fence won't need as much bracing as a long run.
It's a false assumption most of the time, but always, if the posts can't be planted very deep.
When we stretch wire, we do exactly that--we are pulling it and making it longer than it is when it came off the roll--hence the 'stretching' term. This puts a tension or strain into the wire, and it being somewhat elastic (wants to return to it's original length) that strain is always there with modern wire, whether it is barbed, slick or any of the woven/knotted/welded wires. The 2 end posts have to be able to take this strain without leaning in toward each other.

Stretch. All wire stretches, even HT, and it all/each stretches a set amt per foot for any given type of wire. The longer the wire, the more total stretch (elongation) that takes place. When it stops elongating, it's tight. Beyond that is the wire's breaking point.

What we think, vs what is reality...
We think, because a run is 100 ft long, that there is more strain on the wire than if it were only 10 ft long.
False. The strain or tension itself is the same for both run lengths (assuming both runs were stretched with the same force in approx foot lbs of pull) . Why do we think this? Because we are mistakenly considering the weight of the wire instead of the strain, but the large % of that weight of the wire is supported by all the line posts in between the two ends, (and by the ground in the case of field fence) while the strain is still being borne only by the end posts. The only weight the end (or corner) posts feels is the distance between it and the first line post, and that's very little compared to the tension or strain.

Just pulling a number out of the air for illustration purposes..
When the fence is up and line posts all in and you have put 150 ft lbs of strain on a 14' long wire segment, and do the same for a 140' long wire segment, and each has the needed line posts installed, which segment has the most strain on the end posts?
Answer=both are equally stressed. 150 ft lbs of strain is 150 ft lbs of strain regardless of how long the wire is.
Therefore, the 14' long sections need the same bracing a longer run needs.
 

Bruce

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@farmerjan No idea if or when the rock may get moved. You know how these things are, plan then get too many other things to do and never get to the "plan". Which is why your idea probably makes a lot of sense so that area isn't just a wasted piece of land growing weeds. Of the total acreage we have here it isn't much but it is 1/3 the total "land" at our prior house (and that included the house!) and my mind still thinks any inch of "lost" space is just not OK! In fact, that "riding ring" is more sq ft than the lot at the prior house. Still blows my mind.

Hmmm, I'll have to see how much that would cost. It was planned the way it is to remove 2 braced corners but if I can run the CPs on unbraced T-post corners, the extra two 90s wouldn't be a big problem.
CPs are $22 each. Looks like 9 extra panels, 10 total. I would have to cover them with 2x4 welded wire fence to keep the chickens on the inside. I do have that on hand, it will be repurposed from the existing fence where I had to repair it. Otherwise I would just use chicken wire, the only REAL use for it.

Thinking some more: If I do that entire south side in CPs, 14 total, I could remove a $150 roll of field fence from my shopping list. And 6 posts @$15 and 5 cross braces @ $12 for another $150 and some strainers for bracing the wood posts. Um, I think you just saved me some money and time!

I wonder if the people in the 8 houses up the private road would get pissy if I did have those rocks moved since the jumble of rocks in the pile is probably 6' high, 25' wide and runs over the lot line. Technically some of the rock belongs to them. Many woodchuck tunnels in it. I don't mind THAT woodchuck, it is the only one that isn't damaging anything.

@greybeard Yeah, I kinda thought that was the case. Makes physics sense, I was just hopeful. ;) But that is why I asked it here in a "generic" bracing thread. Figured if I was wrong, others who read later can be disabused of the same hope. I don't know how one WOULD brace two corners that close together. I guess you would have to stuff a post in the middle and make a double H though at 7' it seems the brace wire angle would be steeper than it should to not put more upward pressure on the posts.
 

farmerjan

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Glad that thinking outside the "rock pile";) might make sense and save time and money in the long run for you. You could get by with one extra t-post in the center of the panel, and if you overlapped the ends 1 "square" you could make a t-post take care of both panels on the ends, so in essence you would have 3 t-posts for 1 panel, 5 t-posts for 2 panels, 7 for 3, 9 for 4, 11 for 5 and so on, so that you wouldn't have more than a couple more t-posts than you would have had in the whole other fence. And even though t-posts aren't cheap, they are more moveable than a driven round wood post. And you could always put in one or two wood posts or double up on the t-posts if there was a questionable spot. Plus, if there is a spot that just isn't working, the cattle panels are flexible enough to angle in a bit of a curve.....That is one saving grace of them being welded; they are much more "sturdy" as in stiff, so that there are some things they are better suited to then trying to stretch the field fencing. They also don't sag but the welds will come apart if you are doing alot of bending or as I do, using them as a substitute gate that they aren't meant to be.o_Oo_O It doesn't seem like that would be the case for you so would last a good long time and just sit there.

Now if you can't find a farmer or neighbor hauling a load of animals to the sale barn or someone else.... you need to call the high school and see if there is anyone in the ag dept or shop dept , namely a couple of young healthy strong guys, who would be interested in making some money, gas plus time, for a saturday trip to TSC to get the list of materials....by the time you make 2-3-5 trips, and scratch the car roof, and p***off the local sherrif, you would be better off hiring some teenagers to make one trip and get it unloaded where you want it. Maybe even find one or two that needs to make some extra money and get these projects done quicker. I know you are not made of money, and neither is anyone I know; with the downturn in cattle prices we are hurting and we are "big-time" in comparison, and my son and I both work full-time off farm jobs. Sometimes though the money spent is more than made up for in the convenience and time saved to better utilize YOUR efforts.:rolleyes::rolleyes:
Hunting season is on us, extra money for a few boxes of shells or some hunting gear is always welcome. It wouldn't tie them down to a "real job" but might just get a couple things done in a real timely manner.
 

Latestarter

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You know, the major truck rental places rent trucks by the hour or day. You could rent a pick up from Home Depot or a small U Haul or Ryder truck for the day and get everything hauled all at once... It might cost a little bit more but save you hours of aggravation and back and forth trips, gas, time... might be worth it if you don't have a friend/neighbor that could help.
 

farmerjan

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GO LATESTARTER....I never thought about the rental of a pickup or truck cuz we have anywhere from 3 to 6 available at any one time here on the farm. There's the 1 ton pu truck with the "bale bed" that we haul round bales on with the two arms that are PERFECT to hold down any load of panels etc on the back and don't have to tie them,plus it has the gooseneck ball recessed in the bed, the 1 ton pu that is hooked to the cattle trailer most of the time, the "good" 1 ton crew cab pickup that is used to haul the flat bed trailer with round or square bales or for going somewhere with friends, visitors, or potential cattle buyers..., my little 2 wd ford ranger run around in truck, the little 4wd ranger farm truck that is good in the fields for cow checking and feeding in winter....Big flat bed truck and dump truck....These have all been acquired over time and PAID for and we just don't get rid of them. We do have pretty decent laws for farm vehicles here so don't have to have tags and they are covered under the farm liability policy since they are "seasonal" use. Plus my son has a small gmc pickup that he drives to work. We are truck poor, but when you need one....
 

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...Big flat bed truck and dump truck.... These have all been acquired over time and PAID for and we just don't get rid of them....
I believe that's why when you drive past just about any working farm that has been worked continuously over many years... there's always one section of field that has all manner of machinery "parked" there for "safe keeping/future use"... even if only for "parts" :gigAny piece of equipment that isn't needed just gets moved there and the occupied space grows over the years. I've seen some farms you'd think they had their own junk yard. :hide
 

Bruce

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Who needs a truck? It is farther to anywhere I could rent a truck than it is to TSC. And the wrong direction and a lot of time to pick up and drop off and pay for gas in a truck that gets terrible MPG.

Trip 1:
  • 12' corral panel on the Thule roof racks under nine 16' cattle panels
  • 6 treated 5" 8' round posts in the car
  • 25 7' T-posts in the car
  • 330' woven field fence on the cargo tray
  • other stuff for fencing like brace wire, wire strainers, hinges and bolt hooks in the car.
Trip 2:
  • 12' corral panel on the Thule roof racks under nine 16' cattle panels
  • 12 treated 6" 8' round posts in the car. That was tight, couldn't have gotten 13 in there, at least not if I wanted the hatch closed (and I do).
Total travel time < 1 hour, total miles, 32. Total gas: $1.50. Love my Prius "truck" :)
 

Bruce

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@greybeard
Regarding: "When we stretch wire, we do exactly that--we are pulling it and making it longer than it is when it came off the roll--hence the 'stretching' term."

When I buy a 330' roll of fencing is that the length on the roll or the length AFTER stretching it? I got out my long tape to make sticking the t-posts in every 10' easier rather than having to measure, pound, measure, pound... . Never had a need to use anywhere near the entire tape before. I noticed it ran out at 330' which just happens (without planning on my part) to be the exact length of the west side of my project. I'm guessing the fact that it is the same as a roll of fence is not a coincidence.
 
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