The "classic" hive is the Langstroth... That's the square stacked hives you see in pictures most often. Commercial keepers use them because they are so easy to stack, palletize, and move around. The woodware (hive parts) are expensive, and like anything, need to be maintained. Typically you'd have two deeps (biggest boxes) covered by a couple of mediums to be the honey supers. Some folks use a queen excluder between to keep the queen from laying brood in the upper medium boxes. Many don't use/like the excluders as in some hives, the workers don't like going through it either.
The top bar hive is the easiest to just build yourself and can be constructed normally from lumber you have laying around. Nothing fancy, yet quite capable as a hive.
A Warre hive is a vertical top bar hive so relatively simple to build & easy to use. They're ~1/3-1/4 the cost of a ten frame Langstroth hive. (pronounced war-ray)
There is more info available on the net than you could possibly read through in a years time. Just do searches and research till you decide what will work best for you. Typically each beek is going to tout the advantages of their chosen hive type and find reasons why the other types aren't as good. Each has there own advantages and disadvantages. You need to read up and make a choice. If you don't like it, you can always change it up. I started with Langs. I can't speak realistically for/against/about the other types.
Ideally for bees, you should contact your local bee keeper's association or club and go to their meetings. If you can get a nuc of locally adapted bees from one of the members in your specific area, you'll be leaps and bounds ahead. If you're going to buy a "package" of bees (typically only done in the early spring, each package is ~3 pounds - 3-5000 bees w/a mated queen) they are typically shipped to your area from down south, most likely GA on the east coast. They aren't well adapted to your area, and IMHO, they are of lesser quality/hardiness than if you can get bees that come from your area. Luckily for you, I don't think you have to deal with Africanized honey bees (AHBs) (yet). Though there seems to be some evidence that the AHB's seem to be the best breed dealing with the mite issue.
Really? knowing what I know now? I think what I'd do is build a bee capture hive and place it in an area where there is a large food source (read flowers/sources with nectar) and try to capture a swarm or two. Keep in mind that bees travel up to 3 miles in one direction looking for food. So any scout bees looking for a new home could be from miles away from where you place the swarm trap. Though IMHO when a hive swarms, they typically look for the closest acceptable place relative to where they leave from, to settle down and start a new hive. Swarms happen all the time from mid-late spring through mid summer. After that it's typically too late for a swarm to re-establish itself enough to survive through winter. Of course that too can be mitigated with feeding... That way, you know they're local bees, they're free, and they're proven survivors. There's tons of info on capturing swarms available on the net as well.