Non-Climb 2"x4" Horse Wire Fence

misfitmorgan

Herd Master
Joined
Feb 26, 2016
Messages
3,726
Reaction score
6,995
Points
423
Location
Northern Lower Michigan
We have to finish fencing off 20acres...no way is no climb in the budget. So we are using the red top woven wire field fence. As far as animals walking it down etc we put a hot hip wire and a hot top wire that keeps them off the fence, even the sheep.
 

greybeard

Herd Master
Joined
Oct 23, 2011
Messages
5,940
Reaction score
10,803
Points
553
Location
East Texas
Tee post clip tool--it's hollow on one end. Made by Dare. You'll throw your pliers away after you use it a couple times.
1707-S.jpg


IMO, this type isn't worth the energy involved in throwing it away:
31-GBEYy2uL.jpg
 

greybeard

Herd Master
Joined
Oct 23, 2011
Messages
5,940
Reaction score
10,803
Points
553
Location
East Texas
Good point @Mini Horses I will go back to my first post and clarify that.

I found more pictures! This series is on putting on the clips that come with the T-posts. If not properly put on, they will pop right off when an animal rubs against the fence. And of course, using the horse wire, the smaller holes makes it harder to get a tight wrap on the clips, as pliers and such won't go through the smaller holes.

img144-jpg.16167
Look at your clip. See how wide the vee is that you have your screwdriver in?
compare that angle to the one in the pic below. It's more of a 'u' shape.

31-GBEYy2uL.jpg

Both pictures in comparison illustrate why I said the tool above is not worth having. They either first squeezed the vee of the clip to form a tight 'u' so it wouldn't spread open when bending it around the wire, or bought tee post clips that are different than 99% of the clips in the world. Tedious enough to install several hundred (or thousand) clips without having to first bend each vee into a 'u'.
1. I hate and just refuse to use aluminum tee post clips--gotta be galv steel.*
2. I quit doing business altogether with a local vendor when, for the 2nd time in 6 months, they neglected to load the bags of clips along with the bundles of tee posts and I had to drive back into town--this after telling the girl at the counter to Make Sure the guys on the dock put the clips on the truck. She assured me they would.

* careful with those steel tee post clips. On one of my longer runs, my wife was installing clips about 1/2 way down the fence and I was on the other end. I hear this 'piennng!' and immediately knew what it was--she had tightened one so tight on that 15.5ga Hi Tension wire that she broke the wire.
 

Southern by choice

Herd Master
Joined
Jun 11, 2012
Messages
13,336
Reaction score
14,682
Points
613
Location
North Carolina
Question- Why did you wrap the fence around the corner post?

We have always been told by the "real" old time farmers each length should be cut and wrapped at the corner... new run should be wrapped and run for that length. Just going around a corner and stapling doesn't give strength to fence.

All the cattle farmers here do it this way...

@greybeard what do you say? Does it make a difference?

or does it makes a difference for those who use t-post between wood post only?

It is TIME consuming so if not necessary I sure want to know ;)
 

Baymule

Herd Master
Joined
Aug 22, 2010
Messages
33,089
Reaction score
98,633
Points
873
Location
East Texas
@Southern by choice I guess I didn't have any old timers giving me pointers on how to put up a fence. It didn't seem to make sense to cut the wire, stretch it, staple it, cut off the excess and start over. We stretched the wire, stapled it, pulled the rebar out of the wire (we wove it in and out of the holes to pull with) went around the corner and took off again. Does it make a difference?
 

Baymule

Herd Master
Joined
Aug 22, 2010
Messages
33,089
Reaction score
98,633
Points
873
Location
East Texas
1. I hate and just refuse to use aluminum tee post clips--gotta be galv steel.*
2. I quit doing business altogether with a local vendor when, for the 2nd time in 6 months, they neglected to load the bags of clips along with the bundles of tee posts and I had to drive back into town--this after telling the girl at the counter to Make Sure the guys on the dock put the clips on the truck. She assured me they would.

.

I have bags and bags of extras that I get every time I buy T-posts. Probably the ones you didn't get.... :lol:
 

Southern by choice

Herd Master
Joined
Jun 11, 2012
Messages
13,336
Reaction score
14,682
Points
613
Location
North Carolina
@Southern by choice I guess I didn't have any old timers giving me pointers on how to put up a fence. It didn't seem to make sense to cut the wire, stretch it, staple it, cut off the excess and start over. We stretched the wire, stapled it, pulled the rebar out of the wire (we wove it in and out of the holes to pull with) went around the corner and took off again. Does it make a difference?

Don't know cuz we never did it the other way.:hu
We use a stretcher - we made this one.. easier and more stable than a bar... easy to make... in the woods we don't have the ability to do a tractor pull so we use the straps and come-a-longs.
8-29-2012b 014.jpg
 

greybeard

Herd Master
Joined
Oct 23, 2011
Messages
5,940
Reaction score
10,803
Points
553
Location
East Texas
We have always been told by the "real" old time farmers each length should be cut and wrapped at the corner... new run should be wrapped and run for that length. Just going around a corner and stapling doesn't give strength to fence
Well, I never try to pull 'around' a 90 deg corner, no matter what kind of fencing I am putting up, and without reading back thru the text, I doubt he did either.
What I suspect he did, was
1. Tied on at starting post, wrapping the wire around the anchor post, and tying each horizontal strand back to the wire--maybe stapling for good measure.
2. unroll from starting point, until he reached the corner, then pulled the first leg of the fence tight, stapled it good to the corner and one vertical brace.
3. Then unrolled down the other leg of the 90, pulled it tight, wrapped the ends around the anchor of the end point and tie all end strands back into the tight wire, staple to a vertical brace of the end point, went back to the first corner, stapled to the other vertical brace post.

I do not like to do it that way regardless of what kind of fence I put up--barbed, HT slick wire, or knotted field fence.
I:
1. Tie to start point, unroll down ffirst leg of the run to the corner. Pul tension on the first leg. Staple good to the cornor anchor post and first vertical brace post.
2. Release tension from my stretcher, Cut the wire, leaving enough to wrap around the corner and tie the strand(s) back into the tightened wire.
3. Wrap the wire around the same corner anchor we just tied to, Unroll down the 2nd leg, pull that leg tension, staple good to the end point, release tension, cut wire-again long enough to wrap around end post and tie strands back into the tightened wire.

Why go to the extra work?? This means that corner never "sees" anything but 2 separate straight pulls--90 deg apart, nor will that corner post ever as feel much tension pushing it inwards. I see lots of corner posts and their 2 braces around here leaning because of them basically making that corner part of one fence.

It also prevents anything catastrophic that happens on one leg of the fence from affecting tension on the other leg, since they are in effect, 2 completely separate fence, tied to 2 separate ends, but sharing a common corner. 'Catastrophic in my world means a tree fell on the fence, or the river too the fence that runs along it--I don't want the river fence to affect the 2 fences leading down to that river fence..

Pretty much a personal preference tho. If it works, it works.
 
Top