A friend of mine is have problems with a buck she has. He gets very excited at the sight of my friend putting him in his cage after bringing him put for a while. This ends in the her getting scratches and punctures in the skin enough to make her bleed as the rabbit squirms and kick (Silver Fox sized rabbit). Her hands, stomach, and chest are scratched up and she does not know what to do. Her other rabbit is very calm and unlike this buck. I have not had this problem before nor have I seen the buck get excited but she did show me her scratches she got from this buck. I don't know how I can help her but a few things did pop in my mind... Are his nails too long? Is she provoking the behavior by carrying him in an uncomfortable manner? Does the buck have a behavioral issue in the first place?
Scratching
- Thread starter BunnyHop
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Bunnylady
Herd Master
This is very, very normal behavior. So normal, in fact, that it is more common than the rabbit that goes calmly into its cage. Rabbits that are handled a lot can learn to be calm about all phases of handling, but this moment of transition between being held and being in the cage is the time when most rabbit people get scratched!
The best way I know of to reduce the risk of getting shredded, is to not let the rabbit see what you are doing. You can hold the rabbit right side up, but facing backward, with the rabbit's head tucked under your arm. Put the rabbit into the cage, backside first, and remove your hands as his feet touch the cage floor. By the time the rabbit knows what's happening, he is already in the cage, and your arms are safely away from his feet.
Another method involves flipping the rabbit over. Cradling a rabbit on its back, with its feet facing up, is usually a good way to calm a rabbit down. Carry the rabbit to his cage like this, with your free hand on the rabbit's chest. When you get to the door, rotate the rabbit back onto its feet on the cage floor; the rabbit ends up facing away from you (this movement can take a little practice to get it quick and smooth).
Being held is not "normal" for rabbits, so most find it at least a little bit stressful. With enough handling, some get over it, some don't . (I had a Harlequin buck once, that loved being petted. You could pet him until you rubbed all the fur off, and I don't think he'd have thought it too much! But pick this guy up, and he whimpered and trembled like a dog that has been beaten. Very friendly rabbit, but he never got over his fear of being picked up). Your friend may be able to get this buck over his anxiety, or may not be able to, but using the methods I've mentioned may at least help her avoid some damage to herself.
The best way I know of to reduce the risk of getting shredded, is to not let the rabbit see what you are doing. You can hold the rabbit right side up, but facing backward, with the rabbit's head tucked under your arm. Put the rabbit into the cage, backside first, and remove your hands as his feet touch the cage floor. By the time the rabbit knows what's happening, he is already in the cage, and your arms are safely away from his feet.
Another method involves flipping the rabbit over. Cradling a rabbit on its back, with its feet facing up, is usually a good way to calm a rabbit down. Carry the rabbit to his cage like this, with your free hand on the rabbit's chest. When you get to the door, rotate the rabbit back onto its feet on the cage floor; the rabbit ends up facing away from you (this movement can take a little practice to get it quick and smooth).
Being held is not "normal" for rabbits, so most find it at least a little bit stressful. With enough handling, some get over it, some don't . (I had a Harlequin buck once, that loved being petted. You could pet him until you rubbed all the fur off, and I don't think he'd have thought it too much! But pick this guy up, and he whimpered and trembled like a dog that has been beaten. Very friendly rabbit, but he never got over his fear of being picked up). Your friend may be able to get this buck over his anxiety, or may not be able to, but using the methods I've mentioned may at least help her avoid some damage to herself.
- Thread starter
- #3
Rabbits don't have claws per se. They are more like toenails. They rake instead of clawing so it doesn't take much protection. They don't penetrate deeply like cats claws do. A sweatshirt is the best thing to wear when handling them. It's thick enough to stop the raking. If you are having trouble with them raking your hands a thin pair of leather driving gloves will stop the damage and still be flexible enough to handle rabbits. Thicker gloves are too clumsy. Very few rabbits will hurt you on purpose but you will still get a few scratches now and then. It's just part of the rabbit game. Taking them out or putting them back into a cage is when you have to be careful. Try to set them inside the cage instead of having them jump in. They like to use your hand as a launch pad to get back into the cage and that will get you every time.
terri9630
Overrun with beasties
She can also try covering the rabbits eyes while putting him down. I have one doe that panics when she is put down I have another that wants to jump out of my arms into her cage. By covering the eyes the one stays calm and the other can't see to jump away so doesn't try.
AZ Rabbits
Ridin' The Range
Breeding time and also kit sexing time is the worst. If I forget long sleeve shirts, I finish the day a bloody mess. And for some reason bunny scratches hurt extra bad for some reason. Evil and cute at the same time... 
I have handled hundreds of some crazy/ wild rabbits 
... the best and easiest way to handle all rabbits with the absolute minimum risk of being scratched is to grab them firmly by their ears together with the loose skin on the back of the neck then with the other hand place your hand on it's rump and rock them backwards / lift and rest them up onto your palm of your hand to carry while still firmly holding onto it's ears/ skin . Then when you want to release them , place them on their back ends down, then rock them forward , then release your hold from the ears/ back skin in a smooth quick motion away from you. 
... the best and easiest way to handle all rabbits with the absolute minimum risk of being scratched is to grab them firmly by their ears together with the loose skin on the back of the neck then with the other hand place your hand on it's rump and rock them backwards / lift and rest them up onto your palm of your hand to carry while still firmly holding onto it's ears/ skin . Then when you want to release them , place them on their back ends down, then rock them forward , then release your hold from the ears/ back skin in a smooth quick motion away from you. - Thread starter
- #8
We found a way to have no scratches at all for the very first time ever!!! We carry him to the cage with his rump facing forward and body laying on her arm being held close to her body for support. Her hands support his two back legs and done! He goes in so calmly as we place him down. What a totally different rabbit we're dealing with!!! 
oneacrefarm
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Ugh! Those kit nails before the first trim are like little hypodermic needles! They will poke right into your skin before you can say "OUCH!" I wear a pair of old fashioned ladies kid leather gloves that I bought on EBay and cut off the fingers half way. Works like a charm and my hands don't get scratched up anymore.AZ Rabbits said:Breeding time and also kit sexing time is the worst. If I forget long sleeve shirts, I finish the day a bloody mess. And for some reason bunny scratches hurt extra bad for some reason. Evil and cute at the same time...
TheSheepGirl
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See, the 4-H way is always the best!! Glad you found a good way of handling him.BunnyHop said:We found a way to have no scratches at all for the very first time ever!!! We carry him to the cage with his rump facing forward and body laying on her arm being held close to her body for support. Her hands support his two back legs and done! He goes in so calmly as we place him down. What a totally different rabbit we're dealing with!!!
Close to the body is always best. Rabbits like to feel secure when being handled, so close to body with the rump securely supported is the best way to go.
