Shopping? How do I pick em?

[jjaazzy]

I have narrowed down my choice to Nigerian Dwarf cause of their small size, great milk (so I have heard) and manageability. I will have my Mother living with us in the next few years and don't want her getting slammed by an aggressive big goat. At least that is my intention. Also want to keep the fences at 4ft. cause some are already up. Ok, so I have heard that I should pick something with strong milking lines. How? How do I know that? Also should I be panic stricken that I have not found any yet? Or should I be able to find good ones over the next couple months? Trying to get property ready. Also prices seem to be all over the map. How long do you think I can keep a baby boy with the baby girls till they have to live apart? How big does the pen have to be to not eat it all down to dirt and will the addition of a hay roll (which I am having an awful time finding locally) help with that. Probably too many questions for one thread - you should see how many are floating around in my head un asked.

 

[Southern by choice]

That is a lot to answer!

Typically if you want heavy milkers than you need to look for Starred Dairy Lines. The stars tell you that the breeder is participating in the DHIR program and are doing milk tests. Stars are awarded by productivity. Stars can be given on a one day test or the 305 day test. I am keeping this short and simple...

Not all great milkers are starred and not all breeders participate. Some it is financial reasons others a time issue, others no testers available others have just a few goats that are directly from heavy milk lines but they themselves don't care to do all the work as they are just milking for their family.

Having a goat that is a champion is not the same as a starred dairy goat. Many show for confirmation and don't always care about high production. Some focus on milk production and do not show at all.

I will say if you plan to show buy from someone that has genetically good lines or someone that is showing. They can mentor you in the show world.

Be back my dinner is ready!

 

[Southern by choice]

If you click on this link it is the pedigree of one of our Lamanchas.
She has very heavy dairy lines as you can see. The goats have very nice linear appraisals also. (we have dwarfs but not everything is up to date on them so used this as example)
http://www.winginitfarms.com/star-s-pedigree

Now this goat is a great goat and has the genetic make up to produce good dairy goats. Having said that my Unregistered lamancha that would not have a good linear appraisal necessarily and has no stars etc because unregistered goats are not allowed under the program, out-milks every goat I have, even the one above. Not to say that is the norm but bottom line is to look at the goat. Do you have oppertunity to see the goat milked?

We chose to breed her for mini manchas. High productivity small package.

With Nigies there is a big range. Asking questions is important.
If they are not part of the DHIR program then you need to make sure they are giving you good info.

Not saying people are trying to lie etc sometimes people just don't keep track and guess at output. I hear often "this is by best producer" then you ask what is produced and they can't tell you.

Ask for the length of lactation, amount produced, how many times a day the goat is milk 1x or 2x. Is it a FF a 2F and so on.

I have a nigie that gives 1/2 gallon a day the best milk on our farm. She does not have a 10 month lactation though. I wouldn't trade her for anything in the world because her milk is very rich absolutely delicious makes excellent cheese and I store it separate from all other milk because it is "my milk" LOL. I also have a lot of goats and need 3-4 gallons a day so this girl is my icing on the top so to speak.

Asking lots of questions is important. If you are getting 2 does and need x amount of milk then you need to look at goats that will support that need. Do you need a quart a day? 1/2 gallon, 1 gallon? Will you drink it, make cheese, chevre, cottage cheese, feta, mozzerella, sour cream, cream cheese, soap... all these things make a difference in knowing what you need and the future goals you have for your goats.

Pricing will be all over the map depending on the stock you are getting. Those that show and build there name up will charge more. Just a fact. If they are producing champions and working toward confirmation etc they should. There is a lot that goes into showing. Add milkstars and the price goes up.
It takes a lot to build a name and a line.
On the flip side there are those that have goats from excellent stock, well known lines but never show etc and may not have titles or stars. They will generally be less.

Boys should be removed by 8 weeks. Some doelings can cycle by 12 weeks.

Size of area depends on how you will be feeding them.
Some dry lot , some pasture raise.

Oh and btw- big goats are not all aggressive, they are far and few between. We have Nigies, Miniatures, Nubian, Alpine, and Lamancha.... like you we started with Nigies. Love them !
My favorite goats on my farm? ... none are Nigies.
My big girls are the biggest babies in the world! Less snotty(attitude) too! But I still love my nigies and will always have a few! well 6

 

[Pearce Pastures]

SBC has a lot covered. I will add that you will find NDs cropping up soon, as lots of folks plan their kiddings for late winter/early spring. I used to use Craiglist a lot but now have moved to using groups on Facebook to find lines that I lie and want. Here is one that has only registered NDs. https://www.facebook.com/groups/226185690759249/

 

[alsea1]

Pearce and SBC gave good advice. One thing that I would add is be sure to try for goats that have been tested CAE and CL neg. You do NOT want to find out you wound up with either of these diseases.
Personally I am willing to pay more for stock that has up to date paperwork. However if tested goats were exposed to new goats then the test results don't really mean anything if the new goats bring disease with them.
Find a vet that is good with goats before you need a vet. LOL because at some point you will need one.
For a first goat it would be great to find an exp. goat that is trained to the milk stand. This also gives you the chance to find one that has easy to milk teats.

 

[Southern by choice]

Wow I can't believe I forgot to mention the testing

I am pretty big on testing! Alsea is giving you great advice!
Find that vet and look for tested. CAE, CL, and Johhnes is what we test for.

There are many herds that may have CAE positive goats but practice prevention methods. In those cases look for those that really know how to do prevention, and their policy regarding their animals.

 

[Goat Whisperer]

I agree on the CAE, CL, and Johhnes!!

When buying from "tested" herds, BE SURE TO LOOK AT THE DOCUMENTS YOURSELF! Don't be afraid to ask. A good breeder will gladly let you see for yourself. If they don't, do not buy a goat from them. I would also make sure the testing is current, just because someone had their herd tested 5 years ago doesn't mean they are still negative for the diseases. Be careful when buying from people who say their animals came from tested herds, but won't test themselves. Also be cautious when people say that they "have never had a lump, my goats don't have CL" I have heard this a million times.... I shake my head at it.

Even if all the testing goes thru the vet, make sure you see it for yourself. Vets can mess up too. In 2014 their were several breeders that discovered disease in their because the vet missed some of the documents.

I know it kinda sounds strict, but it can save you a lot of disappointment, stress, and heartbreak in the long run.