How do I cage my rabbits efficiently?

[VixenDraws]

Yes, I'm asking a newbie question. But my last breeding stock died off because caging and ventilation specifications were not met, and this time, I'm done being stupid. And by efficient, I mean money efficient. I don't want to spend 1,000 to house my breeding stock and fryers just for it to be an inefficient build. I hope to be able to sink as little money in as possible, for the best cage output as possible. My experience buying cages so far has been foul, and I hope to build my own so that they meet my specifications. My father disagrees and would rather put in a lot of money for a bad cage because he didn't have to put any effort forth. Which is cheaper? How would I go about cheaply building a cage? Where can I get inexpensive materials? What are some specifications required for desert regions?

 

[Latestarter]

Sounds like some questions that I think a few folks could help address for you; @Pastor Dave @Shorty @Samantha drawz @Bunnylady @Hens and Roos @Pearce Pastures And I'm sure there are a dozen more I haven't mentioned. There might also be some pointers and examples in the forum chat threads.

 

[samssimonsays]

I looked for used wire cages for sale (good condition no less) or built my own. Avoid wood due to how it soaks up everything from urine to bacteria, even breeding it.

You can find the wire and rings as well as tools to build your own cages at any farm supply store most likely. I used 1"x1" wire for my French lops with each having their own small kitty litter box to get their feet off of the wire. Make sure it is sturdy enough to withstand the weight of the rabbits. I also used the hanging cage (even though mine were on open shelves) method so no trays, just big long lines of cages.

 

[chiques chicks]

Get good wire and use good j clips or rings.

I've made cages and yes, some money can be saved if making many. Write is expensive to ship. Cutting the wire is a lot of work and I always get cut a lot. Normal diagonal cutters are not good enough for good cage wire. You need heavy duty cutters. Also, if building more than 2 or 3, invest in good ring pliers, your hands will appreciate it.

Bass equipment sells good cage wire as well as cages I like. The cages are partially assembled and come with the tools and equipment to finish.

The toughest part is does. I use ½x1 for floors and 1x2 for sides and top. I build my best boxes of wood and hardware cloth.

Just my opinion.

 

[Pastor Dave]

I am not sure abt desert regions, but you do want to keep your cages and materials used dry. I understand that shouldn't be too hard for you in desert surroundings. I agree with Samantha. No wood hutches. The cages I have bought used had to be modified and reinforced, the new ones I bought were too expensive for what material is in them, but it can be costly to buy and make your own. I use a 24" x 24" x 16"-20" tall cage for my bucks. A minimum of a 30" x 30" and similar height for my does. And a 36" x 24"-30" with 16"-20" of height for my fryer/grow-out pens.
I prefer to buy a roll of hardware cloth or mesh that is 1" x 2" for the sides and top. They need a
1/2" x 1" sized mesh for the floor. You can get those rolls too, but stock up or buy ahead because where I am is harder to find. Almost any farm supply or hardware store supplies these materials.
You need the clamps and a pair of the clamp pliers to connect all joints or anywhere needing a connection. You also need something to cut the mesh. I would recommend you do a minimum of a 12" x 12" doorway, and obviously the door needs to cover the hole and overlap the side walls material. I would use 14" x 14" for the door. Same clamps to build cage can act as hinges, and you can purchase latches as well as a split tubing to go over the cut edges of doorway to protect your hands/arms and the rabbit from getting scratched or gouged. Figure placement of feeders and holders for water bottles if you plan to use these things.
If hanging or stacking on a rack of some type, make sure you either use catch trays that do a good job of protecting any cages down below, or do not have cages stacked.
Hope this helps some, but I guess you have been doing this already; just figuring on new or used cages in the near future. The shed, garage, or barn you are using should have air circulation. Make sure it is vented somehow, and use fans to help move ammonia away form the cages/rabbits.

 

[Ponker]

I suggest using all wire hanging cages. Think about your manure handling ahead of time. Clean under the cages very often at least once a week to keep flies and fumes away from your rabbits. I use tarps to channel the pee into totes and then I can push the poo down and into the tote after I empty the pee. it keeps the waste from the floor of my barn and is easy to maintain. it also allows me to catch and use the wonder fertilizer my rabbits gift me.

I went to the local hardware store and local feed store and purchased a couple of rolls of wire. This is the expensive part so be sure to know what you need ahead of time. I used 1/2" x 1" welded wire for the floor. (The heavier gauge wire is more expensive but a better buy in the long run). I used 1" x 2" x 18" tall for the top. There is wire called 'baby saver' that is a good buy for making the doe cages.

There are many good 'how to' videos and tutorials online. To make mine, I found a good tutorial with a lot of pictures and deep explanations, then made a checklist of materials, bought my wire and tools, and went to work. I made 4 large cages for my American Chinchilla Rabbits. Here is an example of a tutorial I found - http://www.thenaturetrail.com/rabbit-equipment/wire-cage-build-plans/

Its not the one I used but it looks similar. Once you make your first one, the rest are easier. be sure to put the wire 1/2" side UP so the rabbits are walking on the small spaces. Its easier on their feet. Then you can put resting boards inside, hay racks, and all the other goodies we like to spoil our rabbits with.

Good luck and have fun. It took me two whole days to make four large cages but I'm older and have arthritis.

 

[VixenDraws]

Sounds like some questions that I think a few folks could help address for you; @Pastor Dave @Shorty @Samantha drawz @Bunnylady @Hens and Roos @Pearce Pastures And I'm sure there are a dozen more I haven't mentioned. There might also be some pointers and examples in the forum chat threads.

Thank you.

 

[mandi224]

I haven't tried this myself but I thought this YouTube video was another interesting option for build-it-yourself cages:

(Plus, jnull0 is a really cool dude... check out the rest of his videos.)

There's also a follow-up on how to hang them here:

If you know anyone that's ripping out old shelving, it might be a good way to re-purpose it! I thought about trying it out to build some grow-out cages eventually.

 

[Ebers]

I love jnull0 his videos are usually very helpful & informative plus he's just a regular dude lol

 

[MMWB]

When cutting lengths of wire, a metal blade in a circular saw works wonders. When I build, I won't make the cages more than 24" deep. Makes it easier to reach to the back to get the rabbit, clean, etc. If they are long, put extra doors in on one side for access. I put the feeders, water, and hay off to the ends and doors on the sides. If you are sharing sides between cages, you can put a small door between them (I'd make it open upward and hook on the top) and then you have the option of expanding a doe's cage into the next for more room, when her litter is out of the box. Use baby saving wire or use 1/4" hardware cloth along the bottom sides of the doe's cages. Some of the young will get out of the box and work through the regular sized holes otherwise.

I would build grow out cages so I can open the top to reach in and grab the little buggers. A lot of it is personal preference. Basic hanging or stacking cages are proven. Everything else is icing.