Garden tractor help?

[AClark]

So, we have a gardenway garden tractor/mower. I'm sure somebody on here has some small engine experience, so I need some help.
This thing won't start from the key, doesn't even crank. I checked the deck safety switch and it's functioning, replaced the ignition switch (old one was worn out anyway) and nothing. I jumped the solenoid with a screwdriver and it cranks, so I replaced the solenoid. Waiting on the battery to charge now since I think I drained it out.

What else could it be?

 

[Latestarter]

Time for a new mower? sorry... couldn't resist, & can't help either. Guess I'm about useless.

 

[babsbag]

I think @greybeard just posted that he used to work on lawn tractors; maybe he can help.

 

[AClark]

I think I may know what the issue may be, I noticed yesterday that the blade handle isn't touching the other safety switch when it's in the disengaged position. I have the part, I"m going to try replacing it next, I had checked the clutch safety one (not the deck one, my mistake) and it looks good and functional.
I don't think it's the starter, and the solenoid is new. If I arc the solenoid it will crank. I left the battery on a trickle charger over night so it should be charged up. The fuse is good, I swapped it out with another new fuse and that didn't change anything.

 

[promiseacres]

If we were closer would have DH check it... he is a tractor mechanical and builds pulling tractors. me I am clueless I use them but that's it.

 

[Red the butcher]

Being you have replaced all the main stuff i would have to say your on the right track with the safety switches. If it still doesn't go let me know and i can look up your machine and help. Im certified in most all small engines and by most manufacturers.

 

[greybeard]

I think I may know what the issue may be, I noticed yesterday that the blade handle isn't touching the other safety switch when it's in the disengaged position. I have the part, I"m going to try replacing it next, I had checked the clutch safety one (not the deck one, my mistake) and it looks good and functional.
I don't think it's the starter, and the solenoid is new. If I arc the solenoid it will crank. I left the battery on a trickle charger over night so it should be charged up. The fuse is good, I swapped it out with another new fuse and that didn't change anything.

Are you checking these circuits with a meter or at least a test light ... or just visually looking at them?
It can be a little difficult to determine what is happening (or not happening)without knowing how the switches are configured for your particular machine. For instance..
Most MTD built machines used a normally open switch for the seat safety switch. Just unplug (for test purpose only!) the seat switch and the engine will crank over whether anyone is in the seat or not. But, other manufacturers like Kobota use a normally closed seat safety switch. You would have to unplug the connector and jump across the two terminals on the connector for the unit to crank without anyone in the seat. Same with the neutral start switch, the PTO engaged switch. (And there may be an MiR 'mow in reverse' switch as well) all part of the interlock system. And, it can be a combination of N.O./N.C.
Some (like Craftsman) have gotten a lot more strict on how they design the N.O. seat safety switches on some units too. Where you used to be able to just unplug the connector (for test only!) they have now added a permanent shunt wire built into the connector to prevent end users from disabling that seat switch.

 

[Red the butcher]

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/mt...parts-c-20039_20060_133253_24389.html?page=10
Wiring diagram under schematic j.

 

[AClark]

I finally found my other multimeter, my good one is still missing. I changed out the 2 year old battery, as the charge was low after sitting on a trickle charger all night - went and had it load tested and it came up saying to charge it and test again, fresh off the charger. It didn't test with a dead cell, and the water was full on it, but being it had sat on the charger for over 8 hours and was still only reading in the 11 volt range I figured it was bad.
I still don't know why it won't start with the key, I just get a click off the left hand side (not the solenoid) and up on the motor. Before I lost my good multimeter, I was testing for power at the switches - I think one of my kids walked off with my tool, that isn't uncommon I will probably find it in a toybox. I replaced the ignition switch since the old one was pretty worn out and the key flopped in it, it wouldn't start with it either. It did cross my mind that it might be resistance rather than power at the switches.

The thing is, I'm getting full power at the solenoid, turn the key, light click off somewhere on the motor (maybe a relay? opposite side of the starter but I can't seem to tell where the click is coming from) but no crank, no start. Definitely not the starter either. I arced the solenoid and it fired right up on the new battery. The key works to shut it off. I ended up just filling the tank since I know I can mow my entire place on 1 tank and mowed it. Maybe the new solenoid is bad...but I'm more apt to think it's something breaking the connection on the ignition side of the solenoid.

I suck at electrical work, it is not my strong point. DH is pretty good with it and has training in electrical, but more on the side of wiring houses and not vehicles. Personally, I wouldn't work on it but I can't seem to find anyone that does small engines around here. I can't find any frayed or worn wires and I've been over every inch of the wiring, it's all in good shape.

 

[Red the butcher]

The click you are hearing is the fuel selenoid. Thats a good sign. Was your key switch a direct replacement or a universal?