Loving the herd life
- Jul 3, 2015
- Reaction score
He's pretty! What breed mix is he? I don't think we'll ever be dog trial material here but if he can make the sheep go where they don't want to go I'm going to call Dooley a winner in my book. He's already proving useful in keeping the chickens out of the carport and from stealing the cat's food....and he's just tiny!
Yeah...I saw that and didn't really like the vids they posted of such behavior towards sheep on their FB site. But, they seem to encourage such rough behavior, calling it "gritty". I call it abuse. I'd never let Dooley behave in that manner and thus far he seems very mild and laid back, easy to correct on any rough play or misbehavior.Cow dogs are harder on sheep sometimes than traditional sheep dogs. Reading about the HTC dogs and their testing on biting heels and noses in cattle seems to show a strong herding reaction which would be really good with cattle that are pretty hard headed. Be careful that Dooly isn't too hard on your sheep, particularly the pregnant ewes and lambs.
Mike and Theresa have herding dogs, and High Desert Cowboy also has a couple herding dogs that he raised and trained from pups.
Mike, what kind of dogs do you have? Got a pic or vid of them working? Did you train them yourself? If so, got any good tips on how to start a pup on basic herding moves with a long line? I'd like to try a few moves with Dooley on chickens, just to get him started and give him confidence, as well as direction, on moving stock.That is a good video and she works pretty close to the way we use our dogs. I never allow teeth on the sheep but it's in their training on cows. I don't let our dogs do what their abilities would let them do since I would rather the sheep will go with me as the dog is lightly pushing them. We only drive so we never do an out run which is really where these dogs excel.
edit to ad that they are more than capable of an out run since trials are what they were originally trained for but they work now more for their confidence than our need.
Sheep dogs and cattle dogs have to work a little differently. For cattle the dogs do need ""grit" since the cows are larger, tougher, and will charge the dogs on occasion. Cattlemen move their cattle faster and need dogs that are tougher on the cattle.That is a good video and she works pretty close to the way we use our dogs. I never allow teeth on the sheep but it's in their training on cows. I don't let our dogs do what their abilities would let them do since I would rather the sheep will go with me as the dog is lightly pushing them. We only drive so we never do an out run which is really where these dogs excel.
That's a toughy....how do you get them to do "lie down" when they are that far away from you? I can get a lie down when there is food to be waited upon and maybe a brief lie down if they are annoying me, but to get a solid lie down and then get them to do it from a distance? Haven't figured out how they do that one and no one is showing it on vids, either.We have an Aussie and a Border Collie but no videos. We got the dogs long before we even thought about getting sheep with the idea that we wanted to do trials. We trained at a farm in upstate South Carolina originally (Bright Lake Farm). I'll look and see if they have any videos up but they are good friends now also. We were started just as you are now with a long line and working on basic commands, working in a fairly small rectangular pen then graduating to a larger round pen. There is no way to offer a lot of advice in this format but if you work on controlling your dog, that is half of the battle. You have to be able to get it to stop when you command or it's a waste of time. The "lie down" command needs to be responded to no matter what else the dog is doing. The guiding commands will follow fairly easy once you can always get the dog to stop.